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Tuesday, January 18, 2011

cultural excursion, part 2

After lunch we got to go to a rock-painting monument where the best-preserved rock paintings in all of Botswana are found. Our guide was very enthusiastic about paintings that to me weren’t that impressive. However, when you picture that 2000 years ago someone painted that rock with a mixture of colored dirt and animal urine and now you’re standing in front of the same rock, looking at that painting, it gives you some pause.

From there we went to the cultural village where we were going to spend the night. As soon as we were off of the bus a group of women greeted us with songs and warm welcomes. After being led to our accommodations, our entire group gathered around the fire as the villagers explained various details about their culture. They lamented the fact that the young generation has left the village to live in the city, but they were happy for the advent of education and health care.

The chief of the village and his sister demonstrated a traditional dance that the village performs to welcome newcomers. When they were finished, the chief had all of the guys from our group stand up and do the dance with him. We struggled to say the least and one of the local women quickly shooed us out of the circle so that the girls could have a chance. Though we didn’t become masters of their traditional dance steps, it was a great way to get us in the mind set of traditional living and to break the ice with the villagers.

After the dancing the chief performed the all-important rite of throwing bones. Their beliefs say that the villagers’ ancestors must give their blessing in order for newcomers to be welcomed to the village and the will of the ancestors is reflected in the pattern of bones as they are thrown from a bag. Our group got lucky that the bones fell in a fortunate pattern. Not that they would have kicked us out (since we had paid to stay there), but traditionally if the bones were misaligned then the chief would tell the visitors that they were not welcome and that they should try the next village over.

We then were treated to a traditional meal, which wasn’t as exotic as I had expected. There were the usual starches of maize meal (called pop) and white rice. There was chicken stew and pounded beef, which resembled pulled pork. I washed it down with a Fanta, of course, and took advantage of the bottomless basket of bread. After a second helping, all of the boys were served the traditional beer of the village, which is made with sorghum and water. It was sweeter than other beers I’ve had (I would have put it in the wine family) and there were grains and chunks in it that didn’t add to the appeal. It reminded me of a rice-based wine that I tried in Costa Rica called chicha (I think) that the boys would drink it vast amounts. I’m sure these things are just acquired tastes and I would love them over time.

That night there was a big bonfire and everyone had a great time telling ghost stories and relaxing under the stars. Derek and I stayed up late around the fire with the security guard who was posted at our campsite. He spoke zero English and so we tried our best to communicate with hand signals, but were probably just making fools of ourselves as the guard kept giggling but not responding.

In the morning, the weekend of great food continued as we had all-you-can-eat scrambled eggs with spicy ground beef (almost like Chorizo). There was a porridge that went great with brown sugar and a type of fry bread (might be called fat cake?) that I poured a bunch of sugar on as well.

From there we went to a game reserve where they greeted us in the ‘Education Center’ with mimosas (or just straight sparkling wine upon request). The game reserve ride itself was more or less a repeat of the previous one we experienced, though this time our seats were open-air. We saw all the same animals but none as close as that zebra from before. I’m starting to realize that that might have been a rare photo-op.

We ate lunch in the middle of the game reserve, which was pretty cool. We kept our streak of delicious meals alive as they served several kinds of salad, rice, pop, chicken, beef stew and bratwurst with onion bread. I had a second helping again and then enjoyed a dessert of strawberry yoghurt with a crumb crust.

This excursion was the best I had eaten over a two-day stretch in a long time (maybe since Europe?). The food itself made the trip worthwhile and everything else on top made it unforgettable.

From lunch we headed home and I let myself unwind in my room as I started thinking about the week ahead. It’s only been twelve days or so, but it feels like so much longer; I’m having a blast.

Homemade pasta with tomatoes, green peppers and onion for dinner…

p.s. So Tristan Joseph Loiselle came in with the correct answer of Alicia Keys and so here is the special mention, as promised. Tristan, or T. Joe, is about 5'9" with blonde hair and an athletic build. He enjoys working out and his guilty pleasure is romantic comedies. In a girl he's looking for someone who just wants to have fun, and she CAN'T be taller than him. He's from Wisconsin, so he made need a little refining, but I'd call him a catch.

1 comment:

  1. Hey Mike,
    Wow, it has been awhile since I have been able to get on the blog! It seems like you have lived a lifetime of adventures since my last reading! I’m finding your blog to be fascinating! It feels like an escape each time I read. Your vivid descriptions help me leave this winter wonderland and picture what you’re experiencing in Africa! I am so grateful you are sharing the culture with us and am so relieved you made it out of an icky experience a better man! Struggle makes us stronger! It is so cool you are able to perceive the situation in a way that allows for empathy and compassion! My thoughts are with your friend! The reason it has taken me so long to come back to the blog is because I’ve been in a bit of trouble. As I last stated, your Jeep was left on the side of the road… After searching many pounds, paying some fines and serving a little time, the good news is the car is almost back in my possession… but, don’t worry- after all, it is just a material possession! Take care, Jules!

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